Mike Savlen Fine Fishing Art

SS-tarpportrait1_copy_copyFine Fish Art from SAVLEN STUDIOS and the brush of Mike Savlen.

If you are looking to hang some beautiful artwork of Fish on your wall or above your Mantel, look no further. Mike Is an avid fisherman who just happens to be a fabulous artist.  He gets the inspiration for his paintings from pursuing Game Fish around the world. He paints original Fly Fishing, Sporting Marine, Gamefish and sportfishing Portraits! Mike Savlen is rapidly becoming a name known for his world class fly fishing, sportfishing and marine art. As an avid outdoorsman, fishing and painting are the fiber of his soul. Mike’s work is displayed in Fly fishing shops, art galleries, museums and in the homes of discriminating fine art collectors around the world!


Tight Lines———-<*))))><
Larry Snyder
Fly Fishing Crazy

email:larry@flyfishingcrazy.com


2009 Fly Fishing Retailer Show – the Old and the New

The 2009 Fly Fishing Retailer Show in Denver concluded yesterday.  I only had one day to spend there so I didn’t get to visit all the booths.  Fly rods, fly reels, fly lines, fly tying, fishing waders, tackle bags, fish art and more where on display.

As you would expect, there were all the Old well know brands present, but I wanted to talk to and get to know some of the Newer or lesser known brands and products.  There were several that I was very impressed with.

To start out, I met with Teeg Stouffer the executive director of Recycled Fish and videographer Michael Mauro of Mauro Media who where creating a Fish Schtick video media of the show and the retailers who support Teeg’s non-profit organization.  Recycled Fish is dedicated to catch and release fishing and protecting our streams and lakes through ecologically water stewardship practices.  As stated on his website, “Catch and Release alone won’t solve the problems facing our fisheries.”  I encourage you to join his cause at http://recycledfish.org

Then I visited Vincent Su at his booth displaying his revolutionary 720 Vise that adds a new horizontal rotation dimension to the current 360 fly tying vises by having a fully rotational base.  This allows you to tie those extended body and parachute hackle flies with ease.  Look for these vises to be added to my Fly Fishing CRAZY site this fall.

Kendall Carson at Pins & Fins, LLC from Loveland, CO has some new breathable waist waders with far superior breathing and waterproof qualities than Goretex and advanced design in the foot section.

One fly reel company of note was Teton USA.  As the name implies, their fly reels are 100% made in the USA.

A couple of up and coming brands of fly rods, Mystic and Loop, that may not have quite the name recognition of Sage, Scott, Winston and St. Croix.  Mystic is a Michigan company while Loop is designed and built in Sweden.

Schliske Bamboo Rio Grande

Photo Copyright Matt Schliske - "Rio Grande" fly rod - http://www.bamboo-fisher.com

Schliske Finespot Bamboo Rod

Photo Copyright Matt Schliske - "Finespot" Fly Rod - http://www.bamboo-fisher.com

But, in my opinion, the show stealer is another Colorado company that makes some of the best bamboo fly rods you can find.  Schliske Bamboo Fly Rods are hand crafted in Fort Collins, CO by 35 year old owner and master craftsman Matt Schliske and his Rattlesnake Creek Krew.  The Krew is a group of friends who share the passion of creating gorgeous bamboo fly rods in classic styles.  Every rod has beautiful agate stripping guides and measuring wraps at 16, 18 and 20 inches so you don’t have to guess the size of that trophy.  With Matt, it’s not all about the Oooohs and Aaaahs of his customers reaction when they first lay eyes on the masterpiece they just purchased, but he gets excited about providing some of the finest fishing rods on the stream.  The rods I tried not only have the delicate presentation you expect from a great bamboo rod, but have the power to cast streamers and heavy nymphs long distances.  I am far from an expert caster, but I was easily casting a tight line and laying down delicate presentations out to 45′.  At any given time, there was no shortage of Schliske rods being tested at the casting pond.  People were just eating up the casting quality provided by these rods.  Oh, and did I mention the Oooohs and Aaaahs?  I hope to be adding these exquisite rods to be on my Fly Fishing CRAZY site soon.

Schliske Bamboo

Photo Copyright Matt Schliske - www.bamboo-fisher.com

Quick trip to the Big Thompson River

Big Thompson River

Big Thompson River

I’ve been devoting all my time lately to marketing my website and ignoring what caused my to create it.  It’s been too long since I put on the waders and strung the line through a fly rod.  So, I got up this morning, way to late for a good day of fishing, and decided to head up to Loveland, CO and fish the Big Thompson where it comes out of the Canyon.  I’ve never fished this stretch before and didn’t know where to go or what to expect.

It felt good.  I did a little fishing and a little catching and some little fish, but it felt right.  I need this more often.  I consider an eight inch Rainbow and a trio of six inch browns a success any day.  The big ones, when I get them, are a bonus.

Maybe a trip to the Colorado River or the South Platte later this week!

Fly Fish Addiction Blogspot needs to be in your bookmark list!

CRAZY about fly fishing?  The owner, author, fly fisher and inspiration for FlyFishAddiction.com and FlyFishAddiction.Blogspot.com is the real deal and, no doubt in my mind, he is CRAZY about Fly Fishing.  I had the opportunity to have coffee with Tradd (TroutDawg) Duggan this morning.  We talked about fishing Colorado, Alaska, Michigan, Montana, Yellowstone National Park and even Patagonia.

We discussed Fly rods and Fly Reels.  I showed him some examples of products I have on my website by Elkhorn Rod and Reel, T.L. Johnson Rod Company and Stone Creek Ltd. and we discussed fly fishing gear, whether it’s to fish for small stream trout, salt water fishing, or monster trout and 20 pounds of tackle busting muscle packed into a huge, ugly carp.  The passion is for the fight, not always the beauty.

I came away from this morning’s meeting with the perception that Tradd is one of the best resources for fishing the Colorado Rocky Mountains. He has the passion to fish two to three times a week and still find the time to write blogs about his trips.  I’ve read many of his blogs and although I recognize many of the areas he fishes, he has fished places that most of us dream about.   Visit him at http://flyfishaddiction.blogspot.com and see for yourself. He’s one of my Fly Fishing CRAZY buddies and I look forward to fishing some of the streams and lakes in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park with TroutDawg. Watch for further updates.

Tight Lines——–<*))))><
Larry Snyder
Owner: Rocky Mountain Web Connection, LLC
Fly Fishing Crazy

Product Review: Elkhorn Fly Rod and Reel

Elkhorn Fly Rod and Reel is a small company in Loveland, CO.  They produce high quality, affordable products that will give you a lifetime of service without breaking the bank.  Elkhorn now offers over 50 models of high performance, affordable fly rods in weights 1 through 12. Three and six piece spey rods and hand crafted two piece, two tipped, bamboo rods are among the latest offerings.

But they didn’t stop there.  They also offer precision machine cut fly reels in their affordable lineup.  No “die-cast” or inexpensive shortcuts are taken in the construction of these quality fly reels. Currently, two series of Elkhorn fly reels, the MA and T Series, are offered to perfectly complement their graphite fly rods and a Classic Series that when matched to their bamboo rods will please even the most discriminating purist.

I’ve been fishing one of Elkhorn’s most popular Traveler Series rods for about 7 years now.  It is a 9’0”, 3 weight, 4 piece rod and is matched to an Elkhorn T1 reel.  I use this everywhere in Colorado.  I prefer the feel of the light line and progressive medium-fast action over my 5 and 6 weight rods when fishing Colorado streams and Rivers.  It generates some serious line speed.  The 4 pc. rod measures 30 ½ inches in the case.

Elkhorn Ultralight Pack Series 7 Piece

Elkhorn Ultralight Pack Series 7 Piece

If you’ve ever hiked into a remote area to fish, you know that light weight and compact is important. Elkhorn’s 5x Series 5 piece rods pack to 20-25 inches. And their Ultralight Pack Series 7 Piece Rods pack down to 17-19 inches.  Both have a seamless progressive medium-fast action. The 5 piece comes in 3-5 weight with a 9’ 8 weight available as well. The Ultralight 7 Piece comes in either a 8’6” 4 weight or a 9’ 5 weight.  I’ve never fished these rods, but have checked them out in Brian’s store and the 7 piece feels to have the action and flexibility of a 3 or 4 piece, while the 5X would compare to most 2 or 3 piece rods.

As I said earlier, Elkhorn makes some quality affordable fly reels to compliment their fine lineup of rods. Their most popular is the T Series. It is a mid-arbor reel that features an over-sized cork-on-delrin disc drag system for deep, smooth, controlled stopping power. This drag design ranges from free spinning to “stop them in their tracks” power. It provides a perfect choice for fresh or saltwater applications at a sensible price.  The T series is available in four sizes. The T-1 covers 2/3/4 weight lines , T-2 is 5/6 weight, T-3 is 7/8 weight and the T-4 handles 9-12 weight lines.  And, of course, all Elkhorn reels include a reel pouch.

Next is their MA Series. MA stands for maximum arbor which translates to faster line pickup and minimum line coil. These gorgeous reels are fully machined with multiple lightening ports to remove excess material without compromising strength. And these reels incorporate a cork-on-teflon disc drag system. The result is an ultra-light reel with work horse stopping power.

Elkhorn’s Classic Series reels are manufactured to replicate reels of much higher cost from days gone by, yet offer the same look and feel of these beautifully crafted reels. Machined from billet stock, these reels feature an authentic click/pawl drag system sure to please even the most discriminating purist.  Available in two colors: Antique Gold or Silver.  As with all Elkhorn reels, they include a reel pouch.

Now, for you ladies!  Elkhorn has incorporated pink and raspberry colors in some of their model rods and reels.  These colors are absolutely gorgeous and will stand out on the stream like a Gucci purse. I took a Raspberry Traveler Series 905-4 Rod and a Raspberry T-1 Reel to fly fishing class and the women couldn’t take their eyes off of it.  The t-3 and T-4 Reels also come in a gorgeous dark blue color as well.

Elkhorn T Series Raspberry

Elkhorn T Series Raspberry

Check out all these products plus the Western, Big Game, EX and Tonkin Split Bamboo Series rods, plus their complete line of blanks at www.flyfishingcrazy.com and for a nominal fee, Brian will even laser engrave your business logo and/or name in the reel seat for a truly custom outfit.

I’ll be seeing you at Fly Fishing Crazy.

Tight Lines———<*)))><

Larry Snyder

Owner: Rocky Mountain Web Connection, LLC

Switching to the Fly Rod

If your going to take the spinning rig along then you might as well forget about trying the Fly Rod. But, if you’re serious about trying to learn fly fishing, then just take it and practice your techniques. If you don’t catch anything, they’ll still be there for the next trip. You might be surprised how well the flies work.
In my experience, if you can master the fly rod, you will catch fish when the blade throwers aren’t. Find out what patterns are working for your area and give them a try. Local fly fishing shops can tell you if there are any hatches and what time of day. Fish the recommended dry flies at those times to trout you see rising. At other times, fish a recommended nymph (ask about which ones work in faster water and which work best in slow).
In Dry Fly Fishing, size, shape and color are the important factors. Use a floating Fly Line and rub a floating line dressing on about the first 15 feet of the tip of your line. You will need to attach a tapered leader to the fly line. I recommend a 7 1/2 foot leader tapered down to 5x (about 4 pound test). Depending on the size of fly, you will need to taper it down further with tippet. You must taper the tippet 1 size at a time; i.e. 5x to 6x to 7x. Never jump a size or your leader will not lay out straight when you cast. The rule of thumb for tippet size is the fly size divided by 3 equals the tippet size. For example 5x tippet can be used with size 14 or 16 flies, 6x with size 16 or 18 flies and 7x with size 20 or 22 flies. If your a beginner, try to stick with the 14 – 18 size flies. When casting to a rising trout, try to cast your fly about 4 to 6 feet directly upstream from the last rise and try to get the fly to float drag free down to the fish. I will address how to compensate for drag later. During a hatch, a fish will generally rise at fairly regular intervals, every 10 to 20 seconds or so. If your fly floats over the fish in a natural manner, the fish should take it. If not, cast above it again as long as the fish keeps rising to the naturals. A lot of times, it’s a matter of timing your drift to the rising rhythm of the fish. If your fly doesn’t float naturally, it can put that fish down and you might as well start casting to another rising fish.
As I pointed out in a previous BLOG, unless there is an insect hatch at the time you’re fishing, you will catch more fish nymphing. Use the same line, leader, tippet size rules, as with dry fly only add a strike indicator on your leader and split shot about a foot above the fly. I prefer the small, half inch size, cork bobber type strike indicator that slides on the leader and is held in place with a tooth pick. It can easily be adjusted on your leader for the depth of water you’re fishing. The object is to get the nymph down to the bottom but not so deep that you are getting hung up all the time. Use a small BB size or smaller split shot to get it down. The size of split shot will depend on the speed of the current. Not getting down and ticking the bottom on the drift, add more weight or move your strike indicator higher on the leader. Getting hung up all the time, use less weight or move strike indicator down. Nymph selection, here again, check with a local fly shop on what’s working. I always carry size 16 and 18 Hairs Ear’s, Buckskins, and Pheasant Tails. They seem to be good all around patterns.
OK, let’s try to tackle this drag issue. Drag occurs when the current of the stream is pulling your LINE faster than a natural fly floats. If this occurs, it causes your fly to drift faster or slower or to be pulled toward your side of the stream and does not look natural. Imagine watching a nymph being washed away from the rock that it was clinging to. It will be swept down stream with the current, no faster, no slower. A stream will have different layers of current speed from the middle out to the edge with the middle generally being faster and the edge slower. A keen eye can see these different speeds of current. The point of change of each layer of current is called a seam. The same is true with depth. The current will be faster on the surface than along the bottom (for some reason those rocks slow the water down – physics 101). Fish are basically lazy they will find the slowest current possible where they feel safe, but can still intercept food being washed passed them in the faster current. So, the idea is to drift your fly along those seams just on the fast side. The fish will be lying just on the slow side waiting for food to be washed by. They slip out into the faster current to intercept the nymph then slip back into their easy chair. In the case of the dry fly, they rise up to the faster surface to take the fly then they settle back down to the bottom.
So how does this affect drag? As I said, in nymphing, you want to drift your fly down just on the faster side of the seam. That means your fly line is floating on slower water than the nymph is in. This causes a belly in you line upstream from the nymph which eventually casues the nymph to slow down and to be pulled toward you, both unnatural movements that will turn a fish away. The way to compensate for this is a method called mending. In the case just described, you would need to mend your line downstream. To do this, immediately after casting your nymph, with a little lift and flip of the Fly Rod tip you flip just the line on the surface downsteam a foot or two so that the nymph is above the fly line to begin the drift and will catch up to it. You may need to mend the line more than once before the drift ends below you. The same applies to dry fly fishing. Mend the line before the fly reaches the rising fish so that when it gets down to the fish it will be floating naturally.
If you take the time to work on these techniques before you give up on fly fishing, you will probably catch a fish or 2. As your technique improves, so will your catch rate and some day you will be telling this story to other spin fishermen.

Good Luck and Tight Lines———<*)))><
Larry Snyder
Owner: Rocky Mountain Web Connection, LLC
Fly Fishing Crazy

Casting a Fly

The goal of FLY FISHING is to “Perpetrate the Fraud”. The fraud is using an artificial fly and the perpetration is presenting it to the fish in a manner that looks real and natural. First UNDERSTAND that in fly fishing, you are not casting the fly, as it is virtually weightless, you are casting the Fly Line. this is why you always match the weight of the Fly Line to the weight of the Fly Rod.

Newcomers to Fly Fishing always seem to be enamored with the false cast. They see pictures of someone with a long length of Fly Line seemingly suspended in the air, either in front or behind them. It looks like such and artful technique. And it is! False casting is mainly used while Dry Fly fishing. Truth be told, the majority of fish caught on a fly are going to be with nymphs and employ different casting techniques. A little entomology lesson will help understand this. Aquatic insects live, in most cases, for several years under the surface in the infant or nymph stage. They cling to the rocks or vegetation on the bottom of the river or lake as they feed and grow larger. Only when the nymphs are ready to hatch into the adult stage do they swim to the surface, shuck the nymph casing and emerge as winged adults, much like a caterpillar morphs into a butterfly. The newly hatched adults float along drying their wings before taking flight to find a mate either in the air or on nearby trees. Once they mate, the females return to the surface of the water to lay their eggs and die. it is during the wing drying time and the egg laying time that they are actually on the surface of the water and you see fish rising and feeding on the surface. The period of time from hatching into adults, mating, laying the eggs and death is a matter of hours to days. So, if nymphs live for years under the surface and adults live for hours or maybe days, how should you be spending most of your time fly fishing? A dry fly hatch is a joy to fish but most of the time you will be casting nymphs to catch fish.

Techniques for casting using nymphs are either a flip cast or a roll cast. You can find more detailed articles on the internet on how to make these casts, but I’ll attempt a brief description here.

A flip cast is used mainly on rivers and streams. As the current carries your nymph down stream, you keep your rod tip low and keep it pointed toward where the fly (nymph) should be under the surface. As the line starts to straighten out below you, you start lifting your rod up to about a 40 to 45 degree angle until most of the line is free of the water. Then you flip the line back upstream, with both wrist and arm action, to start a new drift. A good flip cast will reach about 15 – 20 feet upstream, giving you about 40 feet of drift above and below you.

A roll cast is used mainly on lakes and ponds. It is a technique that when done properly, appears like you are rolling the line out onto the water. To perform a roll cast, like any cast, you first must have some line out on the water. You then lift the tip of your rod, slightly outside your casting shoulder, until the rod tip is slightly behind your shoulder and the line starts to belly behind the rod tip. At this point, you roll the line out by slightly raising your hand and flipping the the rod tip up and forward with some amount of speed. This should cause the line to roll out onto the water. A good roll cast can reach out 25 – 40 feet.

Now for the false cast. A Dry Fly floats because of its name, it needs to remain dry. If your dry fly absorbs water, and it will, it starts sinking and no longer looks natural. False casting is used to dry the fly, so it will float again on your next presentation. Even with the sprays and silica gel products to treat your fly from absorbing water, false casting is still important when dry fly fishing. Another reason to false cast is that your fly line picks up dirt from the water surface and that dirt absorbs water and start to sink a floating fly line. False casting, therefor, also helps dry the line. They make Floating Fly Line treatment that can be applied if your line just doesn’t want to float anymore. It’s always best to clean your fly line periodically. False casting requires the most technique of all the casts. If you just whip your rod back and forth, you will hear what sounds like a whip cracking. You just snapped off your fly… say good bye to a buck or two! False casting requires a slight hesitation in your back and forward casts to allow the line to straighten out before you start in the opposite direction. Herein lies another lesson in fly casting. When, in a back cast, allowing the line to straighten out causes the weight of the line to load, or flex, the rod in that direction. Allowing the rod tip to load, before moving the rod in the opposite direction, gives you the power to cast the fly. Imagine trying to throw a baseball without winding up.

My best advise to beginners to learn that hesitation is to practice in your back yard with your complete setup, line, leader and some cheap Walmart flies. Cheap, because you’ll probably snap a few off the first couple of times with the bull whip method. Stand sideways to the direction of your back and forward casts so you can watch what your line and rod tip are doing. Start your back cast and when you have the urge to start the forward cast, stop for just a split second and watch the line straighten out behind you. At that point, you will also see the rod tip loading in that direction. Then start your forward cast motion watching the line move forward. Hesitate that split second until it straightens and the rod tip loads forward. Just keep repeating the forward and back cast with that slight hesitation or delay before you cast in the opposite direction. Watch the line, pay attention to the loading of the rod tip and you will soon understand the mechanics of the timing. If you are still hearing the snap of the fly smacking your line, hesitate a little longer, but don’t allow the line to drop too low to the ground. Your final presentation to the fish should be after the back loading of the rod and should be a more powerful forward cast allowing the line to settle on the water in front of you with you rod tip pointing toward your target. At this time, you can also allow more line to feed out through the guides if necessary.

Remember, allow the line to do it’s job and you won’t have to work as hard casting. A properly matched line to your rod is one of the most important things in fly fishing.

Good Luck and Tight Lines———<*)))><
Larry Snyder
Owner: Rocky Mountain Web Connection, LLC
Fly Fishing Crazy